Saw RedGuard mentioned in a previous post Thanks in advance! RockBob, if you can effectively secure the plywood and hardibacher, any topical moisture should not effect the particle board, besides flooding. It's just that PB is such an unstable underlay, that it would cause me to remove it. If the PB is glued, it's a bear to remove. I've tackled a couple of those projects. One small kitchen took 5 hrs to remove.
Good Luck, Wally. Thanks for the feedback! Particle board was not glued One less "down the road" worry. Larger, 4 x 8-foot panels are also available, but their weight makes them hard to manage for DIYers.
Choose a sheet thicknesses based on the application:. You will need to cut your cement board to various sizes to suit your project, and knowing how before you start your project can keep you from making costly errors.
You can cut the cement board with a utility knife and a T-square. Score the cement board deeply with two or three passes with the knife, using the square to ensure a straight line, then snap the waste area of the sheet back to break the board along the cutting line. Cut the fiberglass mesh along the backside of the board, as applicable, to complete the cut. To make round or curved cuts, use a jigsaw with a carbide blade or a drill and a hole saw bit.
Make a rough plan for the cement board sheet layout, based on the area to be covered and the size of the cement board sheets. The joints between the sheets should be offset by the joints in the plywood or other subflooring by at least 8 inches, for maximum floor stiffness.
If necessary, plan to start the first row of sheets with a partial sheet to create the offset. Mix a small batch of thin-set mortar as directed by the manufacturer, mixing the dry powder with water in a bucket. Cover an area just large enough for the first cement board sheet. Place the first sheet over the mortar bed.
The rough or embossed surface of the sheet should face up, as applicable. Fasten the sheet with cement board screws, using a drill-driver, making sure the screws are flush with the surface of the sheet or are slightly recessed. Space the screws 8 inches apart across the entire sheet.
Use only cement board screws and alkali-resistant cement board joint tape. Standard screws and drywall joint tape will corrode or deteriorate from contact with cement board. Continue installing sheets to cover the entire area. Measure your room accurately. If you have an irregularly shaped or sloped room, you will want to draw up a diagram before removing the existing floor covering. Remove or cut away the existing flooring on top of the particleboard.
If you have carpet, you will need to pull it back and staple it down so that you can get to the surface beneath it. The adhesive may be difficult to remove, so be prepared for a lot of elbow grease when removing this floor covering.
Plywood should come up fairly easily after removing nails around its perimeter with a hammer and chisel or reciprocating saw. Build up the subflooring in areas where there are dips or uneven spots underneath your particleboard before laying down the new flooring.
To build up the subflooring, cut or install plywood in areas where dips or uneven spots are present underneath your particleboard. You can also use a skim coat of drywall compound to fill low spots if that is an easier method for you.
Allow it at least 24 hours to dry before proceeding with the next steps below.
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