Installing pvc beadboard

Before cutting or ripping down any of the lengths, you should check the wall to see how straight the wall actually is; never assume the wall is a perfect 90 degrees. To check this you should take your spirit level and place it on the wall you will be starting from. If the wall is slightly off, draw a straight line down the wall on which the beadboard will be placed using your level, this will become your new starting point, you will later cut an angled piece to fill in the gap left over.

Cutting and Nailing Please note that there is a face and a back to each strip of beadboard. Always make sure you are cutting the beadboard the right way.

The reason for this is simple, each strip will have a lip on both the right and left sides, one is on the face and the other lip is set further back. These lips are not interchangeable and will be used to nail one piece of board to the next.

After having determined the final height and cutting a few pieces down to size, your first strip can either be ripped on the corner side at a degree angle or the necessary angle required to create the corner using the table saw or you can use a butt joint no cutting, just put one edge of a strip against the face of another. The degree table saw method will give you a better finish. Always nail at an angle of approximately 45 degrees both towards the top and the bottom, creating an "x", this will fasten the board to the wall whether you hit a stud or not.

Try to nail into the crease, in order to hide the nail head better. Remember to set the pressure on the compressor to between 90 - PSI, this will countersink the nail deep enough to become invisible and easy to cover later. We recommend using a 2" 18 gauge finishing nail. At this point, you can either use MDF glue and nails or just nails to hold up the boards. Using your compressed nail gun, nail up your first strip.

After nailing your first piece, use your spirit level to check the top and the side for trueness. Continue repeating the steps described in the above paragraph until you reach the end of the wall. Follow these steps for the entire room using the table saw to rip the side of the boards to 45 degrees when you hit a corner. Baseboard Shoe mold and Chair Rail When a wall is longer than the strip of the baseboard or chair rail provided, you should make a degree cut into the end of the one piece and a degree cut to the end of the adjoining piece.

Use MDF glue and nails on this joint so as to fasten it tightly. This will give you a seamless joint that can easily be finished later. The baseboard will be installed flush with the floor or carpet. The baseboard should be cut using a miter saw and it will be nailed in the exact same manner as the bead boards using the "x" pattern.

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Porch Photo 4. Porch Photo 5. Porch Photo 6. Porch Photo 7. Porch Photo 8. Porch Photo 9. Porch Photo Free Personalized Porch Consultation. That will ensure a reveal, albeit a narrow one, at the point where your beadboard meets the door molding. Apply a thin bead of caulk to fill the narrow gap between the beadboard and the molding. Where the beadboard meets the ceiling, you have a couple of options: Either use the caulk gun again or add a trim transition.

If you intend to install beadboard, whether in the bath or any other space, these are some tips to bear in mind:. Disclosure: BobVila. You agree that BobVila. All rights reserved. Expert advice from Bob Vila, the most trusted name in home improvement, home remodeling, home repair, and DIY.